Sunday, December 23, 2018
Carrie Nation memorial ride through the Mojave Trace
Sun, December 23, 2018 | link
Thursday, June 7
Counties: Five counties (Attala, Choctaw, Webster, Clay, Chickawaw, )
Miles: 83 on the day, 299 overall
Time out on the bike: 8 hours, 54 minutes; 32 hours, 20 minutes overall
Today we rise early, the fruit of negotiations the day before
and a 6:45 a.m. Central Daylight Time breakfast service. The meal is sumptuous and our start is auspicious. Long shadows of
first light bid us farewell at the square.
Heat awaits later in the day, the forecast tells us. This
morning’s fresh light burns off an inversion fog that belies the humidity we face. In this morning our light slants
through thick stands of pines pulsing coolness of the night out to the road.
Upward we ride. French Camp hews into sight and under our wheels, immediately adjacent to the trail.
Here a compound sprouts on the conceit of re-creating an old outpost, a former inn. We arrive at the break of 9, too early
it is evident for the restaurants, gift shop, and museum to be open for business. We pee and roam and soon return to the road
and the steady ascent in elevation and temperature.
We climb out of a valley I do not realize we are in. It is
a steady ascent and we walk a steep section of it. It’s early to walk. I am ready for lunch a half hour before the Trace’s
mile markers are. We leave the Trace at mile marker 205 and head east on U.S. Highway 82 in Mathiston, toward Starkville.
At the very busy Traceway Café we get treated as the outsiders we are by the slack-jawed, jowly locals serving and
eating bad food in foul moods in company of people they all have known since they were born into this misbegotten landscape
that somehow manages to make adjacent Alabama look Edenic as they stew in listless lives highlighted by seven fall Saturdays
each year when they get to clang cowbells enthusiastically.
After lunch is worse.
Back on our route we pedal through a moonscape of downed timber
and shadeless new, black pavement of an 8-mile section of tornado damage Avery cleverly and accurately (and pityingly) describes
as the Mojave Trace. It is hot. It is windless. It is steadily uphill. Avery puts his head down and pedals without further
comment. The return of trees, and shade, is welcome, but our energy is sapped by the long miles of sun beating down and the
many miles to go.
We slog on, clipping the very
corner of Clay County before entering Chickasaw County. It is not any cooler in mid-afternoon. Exit at Mississippi Highway
8 to pedal 5 steep and harrowing miles into Houston.
Our destination is a welcome pile of dark and deeply air conditioned
kitsch. The proprietess of the bed & breakfast is gone and her aide de camp/washer woman sires us through the chock-full
o’ tchotchkes halls and stairways to our room. We are the only guests this evening, so we have the run of the place
within sight of the courthouse.
showers and changes of clothes we venture out to a Mexican place two blocks away. Our Chickasaw waitress brings us chips fresh
from the bag and salsa straight from the jar. I eye the dinner crowd and inventory the tabletops, so I know the answer when
I ask while ordering: Can I get a beer?
is a dry county.
I am afraid to ask if women
are allowed to vote.
Avery and I soberly decide
to skip the Trace on the morrow and head straight up the Tanglefoot Trail, a rails-to-trails path that starts two blocks west
of our current position. Thus we will skip a highway ride back to the Trace, miss out on Tupelo traffic, and remain on a flat,
shade-dominated path and back-door route – at least while Tanglefooting it – to our vehicle
at the starting point.
But that is tomorrow. And
tonight the Capitals win the Stanley Cup. Avery and I rush the square, flip three vehicles, and set them ablaze in a vodka-fueled
celebration. It is possible I turn off the TV, read a few pages of Faulkner and turn over in exhaustion.
Friday, November 23, 2018
Best day cycling, ever
Fri, November 23, 2018 | link
Wednesday, June 6
Counties: Four counties (Hinds, Madison, Leake, Attala)
Miles: 71 on the day, 196 overall
Time out on the bike: 7 hours, 53 minutes; 23 hours, 26 minutes overall
Draw near while I sing the praises of this day on the tandem bicycle. It is filled with
wonder and ease, surprise and delight, speed and mystery.
Early to rise, early to the Cracker Barrel. We arrive even before the rockers are out front. Our table is at the
window for a closeup view of an employee encircling our tandem with rockers.
Biscuit and pancake fuel inside us, we pedal up wide suburban
streets already busy in the morning commute, but mostly contra to our direction of travel. It is hilly to a disheartening
degree, and steering in traffic stress-multiplies the effort of the inclines. Once we are on the Trace-shadowing bike trail
it is a beautiful early morning of slanting light and ground-rising steam-fog along the still hilly path. Soon we climb into
the open expanse of the trail’s terminus and parking lot, overlooking Ross R. Barnett Reservoir. For all its unbeautiful
and clunky name (I do not want to look up Mr. Barnett’s story. I am much happier imagining his story in rich detail),
it is indeed a beautiful lake. The Trace here follows its shore for miles of flat, winding, breeze-swept coastal road.
Timing and spacing are concerns today, have been a known concern
from earliest planning days. Little offers itself within easy pedaling distance for stops or meals or services. The plan,
such as it is, still requires forays of some non-zero distance away from the Trace proper to seek the few opportunities available.
Our first swing takes us down Ratliff Ferry Road
to the putative Ratliff Ferry Trading Post. It is not trading and there is no sign of life where the road ends at the edge
of what is the upper reaches of the reservoir and the last bits of the Pearl River as its muddy waters transition from riparian
It is a beautiful day, flat and temperate. I have in mind
our water supply not because we are in crisis, but because I know the road ahead and I am not confident we will find ready
access to chilled water. Down the road a bit we pull off at the Choctaw Nation boundary. A self-sagged group from Wisconsin
is in the pull-out, a group of an older couple and what appears to be a family of parents about my age and grown-ish children,
perhaps college students. The young woman rides a mountain bike. A van and trailer pulls up, the group’s SAG wagon.
I ask and am provided ice water from the orange insulated water cooler.
On we go, through the shaded canopy of each copse, sometimes deep enough to hold its own coolness,
and successively pass into leas of swaying grass aswim in blackeyed susans up swales and down banks from tree line to shoulder.
I trust the level flatness only so far as the next curve, until I can see down the next stretch and prove it goes on just
as flat. My fear of an ascent stays ever ahead. Our pedal strokes are even and smooth as I gear up onto the large chainring
and our pace increases to match the mechanical advantage.
We do leave the Trace at mile marker 135 and take Mississippi Highway 16 west. Even in this short 1-mile jaunt the
logging truck traffic intimidates. Our destination is a gas station and convenience store called Michael’s 16 Deli.
It is exactly as I expect. Pedalers cannot be choosers and Michael’s 16 Deli is lunch.
Then there is magic. Whether it is magic on its own or magic borne of necessity matters
not because magic it is. Michael’s 16 Deli is poorly lit. Its bare concrete floor is stacked with 50-pound bags of dog
food and cattle feed. There are coolers of soda and beer and milk and water. There is Hunts Brothers Pizza. There is a hot
cabinet shelving pizza slices and corndogs and French fries and other brown food. I ask for a corndog and mac ‘n’
cheese to be fetched and Avery orders fried chicken. We both get bottles of soda, me a Coke and Avery a Dr Pepper. We sit
at one of two booths, each posted with a handwritten sign restricting occupancy to a quarter hour to keep us from perching
here all day long.
It is the best lunch of the
trip, even better than the delicious Mexican lunch in Raymond. We do not think about the food. We eat the food.
There was a French restaurant in Philadelphia (Pennsylvania
17 years ago, not Mississippi now), a prix fixe place, where I ate what had heretofore been the best meal of my life. It was
quiet and drafty in an old house in downtown Philadelphia and there were vegetables served pureed and in what seemed at the
time to be half vegetables and half butter. It was a highlight meal served with elan, in good company and warm beside a fireplace
on a chill and blustery evening.
It is pushed
from the top of my All Time Meals heap.
I eat at Michaels 16 Deli near Farmhaven, Mississippi, and Coca-Cola I drink from a plastic bottle (it is not, perhaps, as
chilled as it should be) is now in the No. 1 spot of best meals in my life. Avery eats all his fried chicken, a breast and
a leg. His fingers glisten and smudge his own bottle of Dr Pepper. We fill our insulated bottles with ice and water from the
fountain and wish good cheer to the proprietess or manager, her staff, and various loiterers and hangers on and customers.
In good cheer we pedal back to the Trace and on with this
wondrous day. The flatness, the meadow followed by woodlot repeated through the afternoon. We pop off the Trace at Kosciusko
and head in to the town square. We arrive at the President’s Inn and circle the square and get a serenade of pop music
from lightpost mounted speakers. Brittney Spears and Otis Redding and NSYNC and Doobie Brothers pipe through the afternoon
air around the lovely courthouse.
A key to the
building is in the mailbox, in an envelope with my name in script. The conditioned space is high ceilings and broad floors.
A full kitchen is replete with granite countertops and a big ol’ stainless refrigerator.
At the evening we meander through charming Kosciusko’s neighborhoods. Wide lawns
and tall pines feature. We see a bouncy house. Old Trace Grill is exactly right, capping a wonderful day with a banquet of
chicken-fried steak with white gravy and mashed potatoes and crisp green beans or a hamburger, fries, and shake. We pedal
at leisure in the gloaming, back to the square and its soundtrack of pop music.
By acclimation we agree to today’s perfection and rest in anticipation of tomorrow, our longest
Sunday, October 21, 2018
Capitol-ism: Intracity touring
Sun, October 21, 2018 | link
Tuesday, June 5
Miles: 8 on the day, 125 overall
Time out on the bike: 51 minutes on the day; 15 hours, 33
Today is tour day. We are in
the capital of Mississippi, a place I associate most with a long night of intemperate drinking with a high school friend a
dozen years after we graduated Glendale High School.. I’d gone through a job interview earlier in the day. I was freshly
divorced from my first wife and traveling with the woman who would become my second. It was the 20th century. I
viewed Jackson then through Welty-tinted glasses and the bottoms of a Faulknerian serving of alcohol.
I did not get the job. Thank goodness.
This day I am much more sober, much better rested, somewhat
less at loose ends. We rise at our leisure and check our bags with the valet. The tandem I stow, with the assistance of the
valet, in a locked closet within the parking garage adjacent to the hotel. This service is available after I slip a Jackson
to the valet. It means the lock I lug around in the panniers is merely useless weight I am pedaling across the state to build
I bring my raincoat, though it won’t
be used today or on the week.
I am thankful for
all the things we have with us and do not use. They all represent bad things not happening. No rain. No power-drained electronics.
No stolen bicycles. No mechanical breakdowns. No injuries.
There are places to go today, but not by long pedaling. We live in a capital city. We like to visit capital cities.
I take pleasure when we wander around in the public buildings, gawk at the portraits of dead white men I don’t know
from periods of American history I do.
So here we have George Poindexter, governor of Mississippi
when the Missouri Compromise was enacted by the U.S. Congress. And there is William McWillie, resident in the Governor’s
Mansion when Dred Scott was decided. There were other governors depicted with names less evocative of traveling circus sideshow
freaks. In another building, more dead white men preside from the walls, including Chief Justice Harvey McGehee, who sat atop
the judicial heap in Mississippi during the entirety of Harry Truman’s administration on through to LBJ’s election
– that covers some seriously troubled times in the arc of race relations and awesome constitutional tumult. Chief Justice
McGehee died, age 78, in Yazoo City six months after I was born in New Orleans.
Do we build grand public buildings any longer? Is there any
interest in beauty, in trying too hard, in extravagant spending on gold foil and marble columns, on brass fittings and cut
glass? Mississippi’s old Capitol is lovely. Charming women, volunteers, greet us when we walk in. We have the run of
the place, pretty much, and chat up legislative staffers stationed behind desks right out in the echoing expanses of the rotunda,
each on their respective chambers’ sides. I try to drum up a bit of fellow feeling among civil servants, but get only
discussions of relative humidity as experienced here in Jackson versus our Tallahassee home. The Legislature is not in session.
Statute books haphazardly line the walls of legislative committee rooms, as if staffers regularly run over to do a little
research mid-hearing. Misshapen rugs cover up tangled audio and computing cables.
A new-ish Supreme Court building juts elevated from grade to the north – this is clearly the
work of a security committee – and its stark Greek revival boxiness surrounds an interior layout that began by accommodating
magnetometers, moved on to the orderly flow of people being searched and scanned, and proceeded thence to warm hardwood walls
very possibly containing spaces used by real human life forms. The dramatically arced courtroom seems to ache for a corner
where none exists. Instead, acoustic engineers and white-balance videographers won all the arguments, including a requirement
the windows – a heinous concession to bad audio and washed out images to begin with – be covered by sound-dampening
and light-blocking shutters at all times.
arguments are scheduled after lunch. A judicial assistant, or deputy clerk, nervously asks after our business and hastily,
ungraciously, encourages us to go elsewhere and instructs us to not disturb anything at all before we do.
We amble around and about, remarking on the unremarkable Eudora
Welty Public Library, a building beneath the beauty of her prose. We circle around the gallery of Mississippi’s Hall
of Fame, a collection of chosen worthies, elected during a quinquennial
vote of the Board of Trustees of the Department of Archives and History. They actually use that word: quinquennial.
There are nice portraits of William Faulkner and Miss Welty.
We hoof back to a spot behind the supreme court
building, chow up a burger and fries, and head back to the hotel. In mid-afternoon we pedal in street clothes 8 miles out
past the city limits into the beginnings of the flight pattern. The motel where we stayed was 100 meters from Interstate 55
and 120 meters from a Cracker Barrel. That is a story for tomorrow, recounting a long ride of joy and ease.
More pizza and sports viewing this evening in the demographic
shadow of the county line, the urban flight sprawl of the north. This night, Florida State University’s softball team
wins the national championship.
Friday, October 5, 2018
Notes from Ye Olde Bike Shoppe
Fri, October 5, 2018 | link
A quick aside, exploring action in Ye Olde Bike Shoppe. A
brief nothing, if you will, interrupting the utter absence of anything else.
I am giving the Cloud Bike an extreme makeover. It’s
a concession to old age – both mine and the machine’s. It’s a minor expansion of the variety of rides in
the barn, adding a touring-outfitted bicycle with racks and wider gearing. It is the single-rider answer to the current setup
of the tandem, with the added rear racks and spring makeover of its own.
Here’s the greatest thing about bicycles: These machines really extend the range
of travel a person can achieve under her own power, opening broad horizons while maintaining an intimate connection to the
passing landscape. This is especially so on the nation’s network of paved roads, the vast majority of which see very
little motorized traffic. There are thousands of miles of paved roads in the United States that are the functional equivalent
of bike paths. They are better than bike paths, because other motorists treat intersections with them as cause for attention
and care, an approach not exhibited along bike trails. Nor are actual roads – the legal, moral, and common-sensical
purview of the cyclist – as monotonous or fraught with two-legged peril as bike trails. It’s cool to be able to
go so far so swiftly on nothing more than my legs.
I did this building up the Cannondale frame of the Cloud Bike
24 years ago and now I’m more deliberate, now I have a straight job, and now the quality of technology and manufacture
is far beyond the state of the art a quarter century ago.
Here’s the thing about the crankset of the new stuff: The graphics are atrocious. The typography is an abomination.
The technobabble promotional tripe is beyond redemption. How else can you account for “Ultra Torque System” and
“ESP Actuation System” nightmarishly etched into the alloy of the cranks mere inches apart. I mean, really. Individually,
those phrases are without merit. Together, it’s a pattern of felony misuse of the language.
Then there’s this from the Campagnolo website, featuring a trademark and registered
mark-rich paragraph of condescending nothingness masquerading as consumerist egalitarianism.
“Athena™ is the first 11 speed groupset with a silver finish, made for riders
who expect state-of-the art performance from a Campagnolo® 11 speed groupset but without the high cost of the pro level
groups. Technology, innovation, style and class are now available to all Campagnolo® enthusiasts.”
Point being there are negative aspects to the design elements
ancillary to the new componentry. Granted.
by golly, it sure is pretty. Of course it is.
it is almost certainly going to ride better, more smoothly and efficiently – ultimately providing a more satisfying
ride while extending the effective range of the pedal-er. This still needs full road testing, but initial returns show promise.
The fit will be a bit different and improved, with a higher-set saddle atop a longer seatpost. The hand-me-down but decades
younger wheelsets are both strength appropriate as well as a significant upgrade to lower rolling resistance.
The aforesaid gearing lowers the chainring denominator to
39, a reduction from the 42 on the original iteration of the Cloud Bike. The top-end, which is to say the lowest gear ratio,
of the cassette also makes the pedaling easier. The compact chainrings match with the new-fangled 11-cog cassette. This means
a double chainring provides more gearing options – 22 versus 21 – than the old-school triple chainring setup,
along with less gear-ratio duplication.
there is a better chance I’ll be able to pedal up inclines on a loaded bicycle.
The engineering of the chainrings and cogs and chain and Ergo
levers and derailleurs and the cables all serve to make for smother rotation, shifting, and rolling. I believe it will run
silent and solid, smooth and steady, silky and straight. All this makes it easier to forget about the bike, to zip along on
a freewheeling downhill coast or to pedal effortfully, slowly, grindingly upward while focusing only on the wind or the sweat
or the light or the ache or anything else besides the bicycle.
Which is ironic.
Saturday, August 11, 2018
Day 3: Advancing on the capital
Sat, August 11, 2018 | link
Monday, June 4
Counties: Two (Claiborne, Hinds)
Miles: 66 on the day, 117 overall
Time out on the bike: 8 hours, 30 minutes on the day; 14 hours, 42 minutes overall
Before we reach the swank, we pedal through the rank.
Our hosts in tiny Port Gibson, they of the Trump campaign signs, warn us explicitly over
breakfast not to take the route I have mapped out for us through south Jackson. It’s dangerous, they say, citing gang
violence and general depravity. Our night’s lodging, however, is in downtown and getting there by tandem is a necessity.
(I realize now options available to me I did not consider
during planning, namely that I could have stayed on the Trace and the adjacent bike trail now available along some of its
most traveled portions on the way to the northern suburbs. We could have stayed there and taken a ride share into downtown
for our tours of the Capitol and other public buildings set for the next day. Still, there’s something for staying in
the heart of the city, an advantage we shall see as the high point of today’s ride.)
To start, we take a circuitous route out of Port Gibson that includes walking through
the lawn of the Park Service maintenance building on the Trace.
The early morning canopy is enchanting and the early ride is delightful, if already languid in humidity.
An early discovery is the disconnection between historic sites along the Trace and on-the-ground reality.
“It’s not a waterfall. It’s not even a creek,”
Avery observes as we pass signs marking roadside spots of interest: Owens Creek Waterfall, in this example.
Today’s heat does not creep, it arrives fully formed
at 10:30 as we pedal into the former Choctaw Nation.
on full blast. The Trace continues its upwardness, though gently. This changes almost as soon as we leave the Trace onto Mississippi
Highway 467 at MM 79 as the pavement curves on a steep incline. We walk it, then roll into town on increasingly civilized
roads, lanes, and streets until manicured lawns, street signs, city parks, and finally, stores appear. Avery is patient with
my photos of the courthouse and I orient us toward Picante’s, a Mexican restaurant in a strip shopping center with a
sushi place and a coffee sandwich shop.
Picante’s is the very best meal of the trip. So far.
Avery have tacos. I have enchiladas. We vacuum up tortilla chips and salsa and gulp down Coca-Cola like hummingbirds. We sit
in the AC among a dwindling lunch crowd. Our waiter is solicitous and attentive after we tell him we are on the tandem, how
far we have pedaled today and how far we will pedal in days to come.
After lunch, we continue further inland, off-Trace, and through south Jackson. Our first 7 miles or
so on Raymond Highway is exceptionally pleasant on what is best described as a country lane. Houses become more frequent.
Lots become smaller. Fences transition from enclosing cattle to restraining dogs. Then, we encounter the bane of the cyclist,
the road detour. The extra mileage is not awful, the hills are significant, but perhaps on a grade more forgiving than what
we would have faced on the original route. When we complete our de-tour, we are in town. There is traffic. There are hills.
There are signals. There are two lanes. There is relative humidity mixed with high temperature to produce an energy-sapping,
enervating soup. It is high stress for the captain and high intensity for all concerned.
We steer through heavy traffic on two shoulderless, winding,
hilly lanes alongside a volume of cars that chokes two lanes and bunches at lights when the lanes are five across. Additional
lanes are welcome, but they come deeper in the state’s largest city in what appears to be the deeper and deeper reaches
of its poorest quarters. Potholes yawn open. Glass shards sparkle along the gutter. Detritus of all varieties and remarkable
sorts collects along curbs and at gaping grates. Catcalls rain down from sagging pedestrians.
A turn here, a turn there, we pass beneath the interstate and through brief desolation
in the bright afternoon light. Soon we are skirting the battlements raised up against the encroaching poverty, protecting
the citadel of academia. A further turn and we negotiate a roundabout – those great harbingers of transitions between
poverty and the front lines of the urban class divide. We pass unmolested through a security gate and roll onto the brick-paved
quad of HBCU life in the summer. There are few on campus.
On the other side of JSU we circle around another roundabout,
another frontier, and immediately over the tracks under elevated lanes of car traffic and into downtown proper, heralded by
the bus station and followed by the rising edifice of our Jazz Age hotel, done up anew and recently gilded in the style of
the Trumpian era: American Gaudy.
rivulets down the contours of our spine. An arduous day on the bike is over. We idle in the valet zone, crane our necks upward
and contemplate our safe arrival at the gates of this benighted place.
“This is the fanciest place I’ve ever stayed,” Avery says, revealing more about being
14 than the relative swankiness of the place.
we are. Pedaling is done, not only for the day but the next as well with a break for gawking in the capital yawning ahead.
Tonight, we order pizza from a Jackson joint, eat it in our separate beds, watch Stanley Cup hockey and make videos about